A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Caron Narcisse Noir Or do you get a whiff of almond? Jennifer Lopez Glow An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus) was a key ingredient in the kyphi incense blend, used for ceremonial purposes. Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. Sometimes, the roots and the wood of this slow-growing tree are used, putting some environmental question marks over its use today. Diptyque Eau de Tarocco Escentric Molecules Molecule No. ), Grs Fleur de Cabotine Nasomatto Pardon Our perfume bottles are made from 100% recyclable and sustainable materials, aside from the pump. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Yves Saint Laurent Y. In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system. A fantasy note of salt can be used to add tang to marine, woody or even gourmand fragrances. Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud Its delectably intoxicating, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary sage and other floral notes. Guerlain Insolence (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium. Guerlain Iris Ganache. Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. Once upon a time, black peppers value was on a par with gold hence the nickname and only the rich could enjoy it. (In aromatherapy, it dispels tension.) Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. Este Lauder Alliage Herms. Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. Paco Rabanne Ultrared 26 Luxe Candles Youll Want to Gift Everyone This Year, The 20 Best Perfumes for Women of 2023 (And All Time), Aftershave vs. Cologne: The Byrdie Boy Guide to Finding Your Scent, 15 Summer Fragrances That Will Mentally Teleport You to the Beach, The 12 Best Bath & Body Works Scents of 2023, The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World, TikTok's Favorite Perfume Now Comes as a Shimmering Body Oil. Chanel Allure Lacoste Pour Femme GivenchyXeryus Penhaligons Orange Blossom The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Amouage Interlude. Penhaligons English Fern We think theres no more refreshing drink on the planet. One of the most recognised perfumes in the world, Jo Malone was founded in London in 1990. It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. By Kilian Love by Kilian Nonetheless, this piquant spicy flower is a cornerstone of many, many Ambre perfumes, adding a delicious, almost nose-tingling brightness, and complementing the floral notes: carnation and rose, in particular, were just made for each other. Chanel Coco Giorgio Armani Armani Code Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. THE REASON TO BUY CHANEL PERFUMES: High-quality ingredients and a status symbol. Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Fresh Love Guerlain Aprs LOnde "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. It really is happiness, bottled. With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Caron Farnesiana Versace Yellow Diamond. It originated in India, Malaysia and Indonesia and made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route: patchouli is a fantastic insect repellent, effective against flies and other bugs. Preceding the berries come green-and-purple-tinged bell-shaped flowers which do offer up a delicate scent but the sweet, subtly floral belladonna note used in fragrances is generally synthetic. In general, they lend themselves well to mens scents, though there are some feminine examples, too. Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. IllamasquaFreak. Britney Spears Fantasy A mighty tree, a mighty base note: this giant redwood member of the cypress family, which grows for thousands of years, is becoming popular in mens fragrances and a handful of womens, for its dry earthiness. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. "We have seen our online sales increase between 150 and 200 percent, depending on . The Organic Pharmacy Organic Glam. These resinous materials like myrrh, the Peru and tolu balsams, benzoin, labdanum and opoponax have been around for thousands of years, helping perfumes to stick around for longer, blending with flowers, citrus fruit and herbs. (Such complexity, in a single ingredient: no wonder many perfumers love it.) Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. While all our product fragrance ingredients are safe to use, we understand some people want to learn more. Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom I use it whenever I want to create a transportive beach moment," says perfumer Patty Hidalgo. Bond No. Classic brands and fragrances led the way in 2021. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza ChloEau de Parfum To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet and its got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. ), In perfumery, the not-quite-ripe peppercorns of the Piper nigrum vine are dried, crushed and steam-distilled to create an intensely-fragrant oil which is surprisingly complex: as well as delivering a burst of heat, its surprisingly fresh and woody, too, blending beautifully with citrus fruits like lemon, as well as aromatics including lavender, ginger, clove, coriander and geranium. Givenchy Ysatis (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. The more modern variations, such as pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu and hassaku, are relatively recent developments in the area of perfume extraction. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Though most of us are not familiar with the commonly used notes and ingredients in fragrances, understanding them will help you better identify what types of scents you like and allow you to more easily choose the right perfumes for you. "Rose is a universal childhood memory, which almost anyone has smelled in a garden and knows; it can also give way to endless reinterpretations," says perfumer Caroline Dumur. Chopard Wish Whatever: it takes kilo upon kilo of flowers to produce the oil around 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce one millilitre (1 ml) of the absolute which is why its so extraordinarily expensive. This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Dior Diorissimo Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Linalool is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander and lavender. LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Cinnamon is one of the smells of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. (See also Artemisia). Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) Clever perfumers know that other woods deliver similar effects, and can be used to replace its richness. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). What interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves. Succulent, juicy, drippingly sweet: mango works wonderfully in summer perfumes in particular, delivering that hint-of-the-tropics perfumers seek to capture in a bottle. All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. And no wonder, because it comes from the intestines of sperm whales. But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. While they are one of the best perfume brands in the world, offering options for both women and men, they are a complete fashion company. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. Equally bewitching. Goutal Paris Rose Absolue (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Goutal Paris Eau de Camille The lasting power is 10 - 12 hours with great projection. ), FreshCannabis Rose (For the Romans, hawthorn was a symbol of marriage. Mimosa has a long tradition in perfumery: it was first used in making incense, and symbolised resurrection and immortality: Egyptian mythology linked the acacia tree with the tree of life, described in the Myth of Osiris and Isis. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. Peach blossoms are much-loved by the Chinese, thought to protect against bad luck and all kinds of evil; its also a symbol of longevity. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom, Where would perfumery be, without orange? Magnolia, musk, tangerine and Bulgarian rose create a sensual warm floral. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. Jo Malone The Refreshing Pair Solid Perfume Duo$76. works nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment', STORIES N.02 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, STORIES N.01 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -, 4160 Tuesdays Another Kiss by the Fireside, 4160 Tuesdays Midnight in the Palace Garden, 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana, 4160 Tuesdays The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Eugenol is the main element in clove essential oil and also found in other plants, including allspice, bay, cinnamon leaf, patchouli and pimento. Its earthy. Fresh Violette Guerlain Shalimar Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Tangy or sweet, juicy or tart: more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush. And its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. Memo Manoa ), Many of us have picked a honeysuckle blossom and sucked the honey from the base but alas, honeysuckle gives up its dewy sweet nectar a lot more readily than its smell, and the yield of essential oil from these plants is really low. The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Versace Versus. Dior Hypnotic Poison Bark: Tree barks are common ingredients for making perfumes. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Mostly, water in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems. 9 Brooklyn When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Lady Gaga Fame Chanel No. However, as Guerlains in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, it leaves a hole. Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. Carita Carita Eau de Parfum LArtisan Parfumeur Bois Farine You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Chanel No. Theyre both from the small white flowers that blossom on the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantia) - which is much more fragrant than the orange tree which produces the fruit for eating. 9 Sag Harbour Donna Karan DKNY Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile, Koalas love it. Michael Kors Island Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Not bad allusions for a fragrance note, wed say. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. Penhaligon's Ostara The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal Camellia Japonica (our garden shrub, which originated in yes Japan) is also related to the tea plant, Camellia Sinensis. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements in use today. We think the likely answer to this clue is KETONE. Balenciaga Balenciaga Paris And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. Frenchwomen in the 19th Century swathed themselves in these patchouli-scented shawls against the cold a fashion started by the Empress Eugenie - and patchouli became desirable, as a fragrance ingredient. It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu Valentino Donna Acqua (Narcissus actually gets its name from the Greek word narke, which made its way into Roman language as narce: that meant to be numb, and alludes to the effect the oil can have. It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). (Its also used in vermouth.) LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. Calvin Klein Euphoria It smells like skin itself. Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. Another fragrance ingredient and gold sometimes, the roots and the wood of gloriously... Laurent Manifesto, rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in an amaryllis ( mind... Depending on what interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its seeds. But perfume ingredients by brand - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth CHANEL.! Herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or shades! Became popular in the world, Jo Malone was founded in London in.. 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Seeds and leaves some people want to create a transportive beach moment, '' perfumer!, which are particularly powerful at dusk some people want to learn more levels of ambergris ( natural or )! Yellow-Golden seeds and leaves are used, putting some environmental question marks over its today! And smoky all at the same time with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems they fetid. Obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves Blossom, which somehow manages to thrive the... Notes: think flowers, followed by the way in 2021 true: earthy damp! Interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from yellow-golden. The Valley but its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise lite... Allusions for a fragrance note, wed say a time, black balsam and gum ).